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Guppy problems?Try this....

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By davo, Section Ask Guppylog
Posted on Wed Aug 29, 2007 at 12:34:36 PM PST
  So your having problems with your guppies growing strong?Maybe they are losing color.Or maybe it's something else.I have here a few pointers that may help.



  First it is most important to check the condition of the water.There has to be a substantial amount of electrolytes.Also check the PH,the nitrate level,ammonia and make sure the water is well conditioned with no chlorine.If you don't have a test kit you can take a sample of water to your local pet store and have them test it.
  When you are happy with the water condition you can float your new friends for about 20 minutes and then set them free.Also try adding aquarium salt.I find this helps being that guppies like it and it adds electrolytes.When you feed them crush the flakes up in your fingers.These little guys have small mouths for a big appetite.
   If your guppies are already in a tank and they aren't eating or just don't seem very happy add the salt.Only feed them every 3 days.If you wish it won't hurt to give them an extra sprinkle every now and then.Remember,check the water!Give them something to hide in and if live plants are a problem put in a fake.They like to claim spots as they grow older.
  Taking these steps should help your little buddies.I have been breeding guppies for a year or so now and I have learned quite a bit.If you have any other questions just ask and I hope I can help.Good luck with your little swimmers!;)

             Davo

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Guppy problems?Try this.... | 3 comments (3 topical, 0 hidden)
Re: Guppy problems?Try this.... (none / 0) (#3)
by jyoung88 on Sun Jun 15, 2008 at 08:46:38 PM PST

I'm new to the guppy world.. but did you say to only feed them every 3 days?!



Re: Guppy problems?Try this.... (none / 0) (#1)
by MollieGuppy on Sun Apr 15, 2007 at 01:47:04 PM PST

A condensed Immediate Help.
Well done!



Indeed a lot of good advice!... Your call to test (none / 0) (#2)
by unclescott on Mon Apr 16, 2007 at 07:52:55 AM PST

and keep a close eye on water quality is especially vital. The advice not to feed as often when the fish are not feeding enthusiastically is also so important.

Your "small mouths but a big appetite" is clever. Their intestinal track is likewise of small diameter, but long - indicating that they can utilize vegetable material and need some roughage to avoid infections in an empty intestine. That "small mouths" is a clarion call to feeding several small, quickly eaten portions a day. Fed in three feedings, the same amount of food will be better utilized and digested than if it was to be fed in one feeding.

Notice that while water which in which freshwater fish are found in has a number of different electrolytes or mineral salts, those salts are overwhelmingly calcium, magnesium, and potassium. Very little sodium chloride is found in freshwater.

Indeed, quoting Wright Huntley, a very accomplished and experienced aquarist, "Pure sodium chloride in RO water is essentially toxic.  I believe this is because cell transport requires the interaction of two or more electrolytes to be
effective (or some such story). They need to be in some very rough balance, I think.

In particular, I think I once read that potassium and sodium ions are very interactive in cellular transfer processes. You also really need at
least a little Ca++ and Mg++ plus a host of trace elements to make water really healthy for plants and fish. I refuse to count on fish food to
give me those.

I nearly killed all my plants and made my fish very sick, when I moved to Modesto (CA) and treated the pure Sierra snow runoff (<50ppm) with salt to raise TDS a bit. They all bounced back rather quickly when I added "Equilibrium" from Seachem."

Some shops will salt a tank when signs of skin parasites manifest themselves and the increased aquarium salt in the water irritates the skin of the fish. This causes the skin and gills to increase the production of mucus and that mucus fences out or encloses some skin parasites. Note that it also makes breathing through gills more difficult.

More troubling is the practice of salting heavily
stocked aquariums. It is good in that those tanks often run at a high levels (20=PPM ?) of nitrates. Some salt enables the fish's blood to continue to carry oxygen and avoid nitrate poisoning. They need to increase their partial water changes though. Long run there is no substitute for partial water changes and if the water isn't regularly changed, there is a danger that we are getting fish, potentially weakened, which have been putting up with nitrogen poisoning.

Someone else recently reminded me that plain sodium chloride does nothing for plants except maybe hurt them. Additionally, unless it is marine salt, it does nothing to buffer the water and may leave it vulnerable to a pH plunge.

In some cases (here's where one of those hardness kits or pH meters would come in handy) floating the bag in a tank (or floating the fish in a jar) and then emptying all of the shop water into a bucket (maybe pouring it through your fingers) and then gently putting the fish into the tank is better than fiddling around with the fish for a long time. That is especially crucial if the water has that funky, highly organic smell. (And I stand corrected on this one because I have been pretty casual about adjusting from from water like that.)

Dumping the LFS water keeps additional disease organisms out of the aquarium. Sure some stuff comes in on or within the fish, but in a world of equilibriums why bring home any more than we have to. :)

The exceptions here are when we are bringing fish from one water chemistry to one which is quite different (where there are great differences in hardness, TDS or pH) or when we are adjusting fish which are known to water shock easily. For instance, some marine aquarists used to put a very slow trickle flow on a bag of water, adjusting the fish to the aquarium water over a matter of hours.

I have begun putting some fish in covered jars, pouring out all but maybe 3-4"/ 2 cm of water. That much is added to the jar from the tank and I amble off to answer e-mail or peruse Guppylog or sop the hogs and feed the chickens. After 20-30 minutes, half the water is carefully poured out of the jar into an "out" bucket and that much is again added to the jar from the tank. That may even be done a third time.

It was done on a bucket scale, but despite efforts of that sort, I lost some black banded sunfish a while back. Even when we know what to do, we don't always do as well as we had hoped.

Sigh. There is always more to learn. And then we need to apply it correctly.

All the best!

[ Parent ]



Guppy problems?Try this.... | 3 comments (3 topical, 0 hidden)
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