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hot glue gun and the tank?

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By darkrain636, Section Diaries
Posted on Wed Aug 29, 2007 at 12:58:41 PM PST
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About a week ago I posted a question about plastic plants, and I'm still having a problem...



Earlier in the week I posted a question about what to use to make plastic plants stick in place.Or onto an anchor. Well I've tried 2 different brands of aquarium sealant, and it just won't stick. So I'm just wondering if anyone knows of anything else that will work. I did try to use a hot glue gun ( before it was really hot ) and that did work, but I doubt thats too safe fot the tank. So if anyone else knows of sometihng that might work, or if the hot glue is ok for the tank, please let me know. Thanks
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hot glue gun and the tank? | 5 comments (5 topical, editorial, 0 hidden)
Re: hot glue gun and the tank? (none / 0) (#3)
by methemom on Fri Mar 16, 2007 at 09:07:38 AM PST

couldn't resist this trivia... did you all know that super glue was originally designed to seal wounds on the battlefield when there was not enough time to stitch and etc... could be carried in first aid kits, one or two drops and back in action... also since then/ tested and then used concurrently, it is now used in surgery in operating rooms... that was its original purpose... look how far we've come! It should be fine for fish once it has cured... the curing process does release cyanide in some form.... methemom



These breather bags where we fill the entire (none / 0) (#4)
by unclescott on Fri Mar 16, 2007 at 10:50:41 AM PST

bag with fish and water (no air) also have their origin in a dressing for surgery. The wound could breathe, but not leak fluids.

Kordon Corporation has sold those bags for years and finally ran out of their supply last year. They announced that they wouldn't be selling them any more. There was an outpouring of support for those bags from aquarists and they decided to have another batch manufactured.

I was so pleased I called them up, after checking their site on-line http://www.novalek.com/kordon/index.htm
and had the bags delivered to my hotel for the NANFA convention last September. Figured that would be a nice way of saying thank-you.

I was very impressed with how our host in Phoenix Allan Semeit was packing killies and livebearers in small breather bags. A fish and a couple of ounces of water was inserted in the bottom, the bag was draped carefully over an electric bag sealer and sealed. The mate to that fish was put in what became the next compartment with a couple ounces of water and sealed. Then a label with popular name, scientific name and collecting location (if any) was sealed in the last segment of the bag.

Those bags do need to be packed with pieces of cardboard or styrofoam between the bags so that the bags continue to exchange oxygen and carbon dioxide. Bags touching each other cancel each other out on the touching sides because there is no access to the air. My worries about somebody getting crushed were fortunately for naught.

One of the pairs of fish I brought home was in such a package as that described above. I get claustrophobic on behalf of the fish, but it doesn't seem to bother them. I was able to bring four pairs home from Phoenix to Chicagoland. They were packed in a small 6x6x8 inch thick-walled styrofoam box and then packed between layers of clothing to cushion the bouncing they would get being loaded and unleaded from the plane and baggage conveyor belts.

Some of "my" fish were also separated bagged in conventional fish bags and some of them had to have been in those bags 5-6 days when one considers the day for packing, travel, the weekend workshop, flight home and weary process of unpacking and placing each pair in their own quarters.

They all made it! They seem in better shape than a couple of the fish left home.

Small, cold-blooded fish, fasted for two days before packing, evidently just "go on hold" when separately bagged and put in the dark. If the packing keeps them from extremes in temperature and the pounding luggage can take, they do fine.

I accept that (more or less) intellectually. But there is still a sense of wonder looking at those little gems swimming around a fish tank, begging for food, knowing that over the preceding week they traveled from 1,700 to almost 4,000 miles, sometimes on a couple of flights and several hours of automobile traffic. And I couldn't help slipping off from the baggage pick up area, to a quiet corner of Midway Airport, to open my bag and see if they were alright.

[ Parent ]



I'm disappointed that the aquarium sealant, (none / 0) (#2)
by unclescott on Fri Mar 16, 2007 at 07:11:03 AM PST

presumably pure silicone cement, didn't work. Did you set the plant on a rock, probably where it could be left again a standing surface (box, aquarium ...) and let it sit for a couple of days? It is a sealant, not strictly a glue and takes a long time to set up.

(I think you know this, but for someone else, don't use just any automotive or bathroom or painting silicone sealer. They may have poisons in there to discourage mold or algae and those could be dangerous for aquarium fish. The tube should say pure silicone and safe for aquariums. I can still, with some searching, find a DAP and a GE tube which fits my caulking gun. The clear stuff probably looks the best because it is the least obvious.)

There is supposed to be a Karen Randall page on C02 for planted aquarium where she says that a hot glue gun will make a great seal. A lot of that is for DUI CO2 units and not in the aquarium itself.  Yanketh, in the recently posted aquarium images, also showed a CO2 unit. He used gaskets. Here is the link to that page:

http://www.animalnetwork.com/fish2/aqfm/1997/oct/aquatic/default.asp

It doesn’t work for me and their search function wasn’t very cooperative.

As with all others, make sure all fumes are gone and that the glue has set up and cured before putting it in water.

Sometimes if one can find an old, old metal framed aquarium, they will have those heavy slate bottoms. If the aquarium is beyond help, as many of those 45-year-old-plus tanks now are, wear some heavy leather work gloves (so you don't get cut) and eye guards/goggles and disassemble the tank. (I find a hooked box/roofing knife is very handy.) Save the slate for plant weights.

Slate rocks are also a traditional spawning surface for angelfish. I gave the bottoms of a couple old tanks to angelfish breeders.

If the slate looks dirty, take a wire brush of the sort used to scrap paint (without any paint on it please) or a stiff plastic brush and clean the surfaces. I then would soak it in bleach in warm weather, in the shade outside.

I wonder if the silicon didn't set up in a day because of the dryness of the air. Was the air warm, close to 80 F/27 C? What do you think?

I would try one of those super glues if nothing else works. One version of those has been used under water. And they are fast - acting don't glue your fingers together. ;) There is a little cyanide in them, so I would use them only in well ventilated areas. Actually I would use any of the items above only in a warehouse, factory room or outside in warmer weather where there is a lot of air to dilute fumes. I've only so many brain cells left. ;)

Super glue has also been used to close pin hole leaks in aquariums. But you must be able to tell precisely where the pin hole is. :)

All the best!



Re: I'm disappointed that the aquarium sealant, (none / 0) (#5)
by darkrain636 on Fri Mar 16, 2007 at 11:11:25 AM PST

Yeah, I was also surprised it didnt work. I let it sit 36 hours before touching it, and it wasn't bonded at all. I doubt it had anything to do with the warm weather. Since I'm from Oregon, it only gets above 80 degress in July and August. Rain Rain Rain. ALl it ever does here. Maybe I'll try it again this weekend. Thanks for the help.

[ Parent ]


Try the glue gun or super glue. Or... do you have (none / 0) (#6)
by unclescott on Fri Mar 16, 2007 at 07:56:45 PM PST

an expendable cardboard box or an old tank you could put over the glued parts. Take a pie tin (or smaller tart tin) of water for humidity. Safer might be to put an old aquarium over the glued stuff and water tin. Then put an aquarium light or the end of a reading light on the inverted bottom of that. Leave it. That should give you the heat and humidity.

Prolly could use a box instead of a tank, but I wouldn't want you starting a fire. :)

Would you have an old glass or plastic display case?

I suppose you could put the glued stuff, the water tin and a standing light UNDER the box - so long as the light didn't touch the water or box. We're trying for a small, warm, humid space under the box.

How about one of those translucent 20 or 40 gallon storage boxes of plastic? If you do it right, the storage box will be unharmed except for a little moisture which could be wiped off. Then after a little air drying, you could put the previously stored clothes or bedding back in. ;)

The draw back to those approaches is that the silicone glue should be under there for 2 or more days. That makes the super glue or glue gun look better all the time. :)

I recall a wonderful visit to the Pacific Northwest. It was refreshingly cool compared to  summertime on the central plains. You guys grew great berries and veggies like broccoli. One should leave corn and tomatoes to the warm summer areas though. :)

[ Parent ]



hot glue gun and the tank? | 5 comments (5 topical, 0 editorial, 0 hidden)
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