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Copper levels?

Health and Medicine
By PeterW
from the Fish Diseases 'R Us department, Section Ask Guppylog
Posted on Wed Aug 29, 2007 at 12:17:10 PM PST
Tags: (all tags)
I've been using mardel's coppersafe to try and keep a previous ich outbreak under control and to stamp out some ich on some new fish (argh!  but at least it turned up in quarantine!!).  However, I just tested the levels and found them much lower than the instructions say.



Mardel's instructions say that the doses given in the instructions will yield a 1.5 - 2.0 ppm concentration (5ml of solution per 4 gallons of water).  I've been adding new coppersafe with each partial water change to maintain the levels.

However..  Visible ich spots just returned to one my neon tetras after a 15 day absence.  So, I decided to check the levels.

I've just tested and found 0.25 in one tank and 0.5 in two others.  The tetras were in the one with 0.25ppm.  And, there is a snail crawling around in there!  This stuff is supposed to kill snails as a side effect!

I've read in various places that things can affect the copper levels, including disolved organic waste, etc etc.  The tetras tank has had a long history of being a bit wonky with pH - I assume that there is leftover organic matter deep in the gravel that I didn't pick up with the gravel vac.  The tetras inherited the tank - it was my first one and was the one I was originally overfeeding in.

Also, the darn tap-water conditioners all "remove heavy metals, including copper".  I'm sure that is  having an effect, especially since I'm being a bit on the generous side with water changes.

The point of my question though is that I've read two different recommendations for levels.  One is 1.5-2.0ppm (The test kit measures ppm also).  The fish health book mentions 0.3-0.5mg/L.  I've seen other copper based medications that also give dosage measurements in mg/L (0.2 = theraputic, 0.8 = toxic). (mg/L == ppm)

Are they talking about the same thing?  Or is this a free copper vs chelated copper thing?  As near as I can tell, mardel's coppersafe is chelated copper.

Dare I assume that the levels are just too low and that I need to increase them closer to what Mardel's instructions say?  And if so, do I just gradually add more till the levels test at a more reasonable value?

I tested a 5 gallon bucket of water filled to the 4G mark, with the water conditioner I'm using (aqua plus, to break the chloramine down).  Mardel's dose gives me a little over 0.5 ppm after letting it settle for 15 minutes.  Adding a second dose takes it pretty close 2.0ppm.  ie: the second dose added about 1.5ppm, which is closer to what is supposed to happen.

This suggests to me that the water conditioner is eating a good portion of the initial dose.  Does that sound plausible to anybody else?  [You know, maybe I should test this theory on some water without conditioner in it, or some de-ionized water.  I'll try that tomorrow.]

Anyway, what I'm most worried about is the discrepancy in the dosage levels.  My inclination is to go with the numbers that mardel give, but I'd like a second opinion on what the AP copper level test kit.  [I just found additional instructions online - AP's web site says that it tests both free and chelated copper levels and to use the levels recommended by the label of the medication...]

(Its a new product and not in their regular product indexes yet - you can see the instructions here:  http://www.aquariumpharm.com/testkits/copper.html)

BTW: is anybody else annoyed with all these kitchen sink products that do too much?  I've just noticed that they added a synthetic slime code additive to aqua plus!  I was originally using it because it didn't have as much junk in it as amquel+, and now its got aloe vera extract and causes water to foam.  Is a simple chlorine/chloramine remover too much to ask for???  (I have chloramine which wont evaporate)  I'd be using deionized water if I didn't have such a hard time getting the buffering right.  I've already learned the hard way about the the 7.0 buffers that are phosphate based (algae+++ !!).

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Copper levels? | 1 comment (1 topical, editorial, 0 hidden)
Interesting that the water conditioners seem (none / 1) (#1)
by unclescott on Sat Oct 02, 2004 at 08:43:32 AM PST

to be "fixing" the copper. Virtually all killie people have quite using copper for velvet. They too feel proper measurements are too much trouble to fool with. You might check a Betta site and see what they do.

Rather than continuing the struggle to medicate with the copper, why don't you try a teaspoon of salt per real gallon of water in the tank and something with acriflavin in it? You can find it as a product all it's own. Jungle has a Velvet Guard which includes it. Aquarium Pharmaceuticals used to have an Acriflavin Plus but I didn't see it on their site. (Maybe I am mistaken as to manufacturer.) Kordon may sell it too.

I do think that organic stuff absorbs a little acriflavin too, but, aside from it's staining potential in the tank's silicon cement and our clothing, it may be a lot easier to use. Note the salt suggestion. As with ich, the salt is useful because it IRRITATES the skin and provokes the skin of the fish to produce a deeper layer of mucus (skin slime).

I mentioned on GL recently that I purchased two pairs of Fundulopanchax scheeli at Detroit last weekend. To my dismay, in the adjusting jar, I could see them shimmying and showing the tiny spots characteristic of velvet. They were the last acclimated to their new tank. Acriflavin had already been measured into the tank. They were the last to have their changing water dumped through my fingers into the diseased water bucket. The scheeli were placed in their new home. The carrying bags were trashed. The adjusting jars and yogurt containers used as a top for the jars were dumped in my bleach barrel. My hands were scrubbed down in the bleach water, then vinegared to get rid of the bleach and soaped down. Obviously I went on to other non-aquatic things.

Those fish look a lot better, but I may re-treat and pack newspaper around the tank to cut off the light (from a pretty well illuminated location) for a couple of days. Velvet organisms are typical of a number of protists in that they have chlorophyll and also animal characteristics. By shading them I am hoping to cut down on a food source for them. As far as that goes, the green acriflavin may also limit their photosynthetic efforts too. As the parasites are weakened, it is hoped that the fish's immune systems will be able to reassert themselves.

Good luck and all the best!
Scott Davis



Copper levels? | 1 comment (1 topical, 0 editorial, 0 hidden)
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